The Skunk Train earned its unusual name because inhabitants along the serpentine railbed could often smell the train before they could see it. The convoluted railbed prevented the train from outrunning its exhaust—which would flow down the valley, alerting the locals to the train's pending arrival.
Today, tourists come to ride the train in Northern California's redwood landscape. The airport that serves the town of Willits, the train's eastern terminus, has its own story to tell. The Willits Airport used to be down in the valley, alongside the town. Now it's located four miles north of town, up on a plateau that gathers wind. It's a good airport, but getting into town and to the Skunk Train requires transportation.
Willits is designated as "Willits, Ells Field," and your loran or GPS will recognize it as O28. Willits is 122 nautical miles northwest of the Sacramento VOR (steer 290 during no-wind conditions). You'll have to climb up to at least 5,500 feet to stay clear of terrain on this course. Maxwell 1 and 3 MOAs show up on your San Francisco Sectional chart, but the bases of these MOAs start at 11,000 feet, so they don't present any problems for VFR fliers.
Ells Field
Runway 16/34 at Ells Field is in good shape, is paved, and measures 3,000 by 75 feet. There are windsocks on each end of the runway; the prevailing wind favors 34.
Because of its location on the plateau, it's rare that the approaches during final to touchdown are not without a bump or two but once near the runway, things calm down. The south end of the runway is lower than the northern end, and this should be taken into account during landing. Level out, and the runway will come up to meet you.
Right traffic to Runway 34 is preferred for landing. If the wind is calm, takeoffs are generally commenced from the end of 16 to take advantage of the runway downslope. Once on the ground, there's plenty of room on the ramp for parking. Parking is $3 a night, and the tiedown chains are in excellent shape. Fuel is available through a credit card self-service system.
If you decide to arrive early in the day, you should plan for the possibility of fog—with the airport being only 20 nm from the Pacific Ocean, there are times when maritime fog will extend inland to Willits. Lampson Field, approximately 35 miles to the south in Lakeport, often remains open when fog overlays Willits. This is because of the heat given off by Clear Lake, the large freshwater lake adjacent to Lakeport.
Once you arrive and are ready to take a ride on the Skunk Train, or need a ride to your motel in Willits, call Dial-A-Ride (707/459-9038). A helpful driver will come out with a 10-seat van. The cost from my motel to the airport was $11. Dial-A-Ride's hours are limited on Saturday and there is no service on Sunday, so plan accordingly.
Rental cars are available from Auto Mart (707/459-3039) or through Enterprise Rent-A-Car in Ukiah (707/462-2200). Neither agency is open on Sundays, and reservations are required.
The Skunk Train
The Skunk Train follows a railbed that appears to have been laid out by a drunken snake. During descent into the Noyo River Valley it takes eight and a half miles of track for one mile of forward progress. Look on your sectional chart for the railroad track west of Willits, and you'll see what I mean.
I had hoped to enjoy a two-day trip by flying to Willits, then riding the train across to Fort Bragg on the Mendocino Coast, staying the night in a local motel, and jumping the train for a ride back to the airplane. Alas, it wasn't to be, so I took a half-day train ride from Willits to Northspur. If I'd had time to go on to Fort Bragg, I would have switched trains at Northspur. Cost for the half-day trip was $27, and it was worth every penny.
Last year 75,000 riders boarded Skunk Train cars. Family fares are available, or the whole train can be chartered when you want to treat all your friends to an unforgettable party. For further information, call 800/77-Skunk or 707/459-5248 for the Willits Depot, or visit the Web site ( www.skunktrain.com).
The train I rode was a 1935 American Car self-powered railcar. Everyone pushed up the windows and enjoyed the sights, sounds, and smells of the western redwood forest. The motorman kept up a running commentary on sights along the route, such as the "Willits" sign that arches over Highway 101 in the middle of town. This same sign has been seen on thousands of postcards from Reno, Willits' sister city, when it had "Reno—the Biggest Little City in the World" painted across its arch. When Reno needed a larger sign, Willits claimed the original and repainted it.
Annual events and attractions
Vigorous walkers can cover the town from one end to the other in less than an hour. Across the street from the Skunk Train depot is the Mendocino County Museum, which features an extensive collection of Pomo and Yuki Indian baskets, early steam-powered railroad and logging machinery, winery tools, and other artifacts.
Annual events start with the Celtic Renaissance Faire that took place this year on May 20 and 21. On the July 4 weekend this year, the seventy-fourth annual Willits Frontier Days party was staged. This celebration included a rodeo, cowboy breakfast, parade, barbeque, gunfighter exhibition, and a water fight in the city park to cap it all off.
On August 27 the eighth annual Willits Airport Day will be held. Fly in and help celebrate a local airport. The fifteenth annual Roots of Motive Power Festival and Lumberjack Handcar Races will be held on September 9 and 10. Working exhibits of antique steam-powered logging equipment are featured, with the weekend capped off by hilarious railroad handcar races. Handcars are small cars that were used by maintenance crews to travel the railbed. Propelled by vigorously pumping up and down on the T-handles of a center-pivoting actuating bar, proper operation required teamwork, balance, and strength.
Information on all of these events, as well as lodging information, is available on the Willits Web site ( www.willits.org). Or you can call the Willits Chamber of Commerce (707/459-7910) for more information.
For lodging and information about Fort Bragg, visit the Web site ( www.mendocinocoast.com) or call the Chamber of Commerce (800/726-2780).
Links to additional information about flying to Willits may be found on AOPA Online ( www.aopa.org/pilot/links/links0008.shtml). E-mail the author, who professes not to be Ells Field's namesake, at [email protected].
