Postcards

Green island jewels afloat in a sea of champagne

Even when Lake Erie, the shallowest of the five Great Lakes, looks docile and quiet, this ocean-like body of water can toss some ugly stuff at pilots. That's the way it was on a brilliant summer day as a fast-moving cold front chased a graying blanket of clouds overhead while water skiers and fishing boats sliced Vs on the warm water.

I had stopped at Sandusky (Ohio) City Airport for lunch and the latest lake news when Tom Griffing, head of Griffing Flying Service, walked by, announcing that, indeed, Lake Erie was up to her nasty tricks.

"You better watch out," he said, describing a pair of gyrating water spouts that had just been reported dancing their way across the bay between South Bass Island and Kelleys Island. Griffing looked at me, winked, and suggested that I try to get into the air quickly enough to snap a few pictures of the spouts.

No thanks.

The idea of the swirling 50-mile-per-hour winds of a miniature tornado is not high on my "fun flying" list. But that kind of adverse weather phenomenon is exactly what pilots need to know about when they are planning a trip to the area.

A while later, I climbed above Runway 9 and banked north to fly a course for the islands, a series of limestone-and-shale atolls that rise from Lake Erie's western waters like green jewels in a pool of sparkling champagne.

At 1,600 feet msl, I was chugging along a finger-like stretch of property and looking at what appeared to be a herd of huge serpent-like monsters ahead. The high-rise tracks of Cedar Point Amusement Park's rollercoasters can look that way from the air.

A course due north from Cedar Point put me right over Kelleys Island Municipal Airport in Ohio, the first stop on this day of island hopping. The slight east breeze was still evident, mandating an over- island approach to the east-west runway located on the eastern- most edge of the island. And this is where newcomers to island flying need to be ready to use their best short-field techniques. There are no obstructions beyond the runway, just a couple of hundred miles of water, and the first 50 feet or so can be tough on airplanes and pilots who land long. Keep in mind, too, that there is an intersection across the approach end of Runway 9. No, not another runway, but a road upon which travels a steady stream of cars, carts, and bicycles. But fret not — airplanes have the right of way.

Kelleys Island is not where the action is. In fact, Kelleys Island is about the most laid-back place you can find in this neck of the woods — or lake. Time stands still here, and about the fastest attraction is the near-perfectly preserved glacial grooves which haven't moved an inch since the retreat of the last ice age thousands of years ago.

Pilots who land here can call for either a taxi or the owner of one of several excellent Victorian bed and breakfasts to pick them up. The best mode of travel for Kelleys visitors is rental golf carts or bikes. There is nothing more enjoyable than a leisurely breakfast overlooking Lake Erie, one served on the screened porch of Cricket Lodge.

The flight between Kelleys and Put-in-Bay (OH30) on South Bass Island is a matter of a takeoff, a landing, and just enough time to trim the aircraft — if you're quick. The challenge at Put-in-Bay is the crosswind — an ever-present breeze that can send sloppy pilots back to the mainland for a landing. There is also the matter of a 352-foot stone tower just north of the airport, a monument to Commodore Oliver Perry, who won the Battle of Lake Erie and turned the tide of the War of 1812.

A single 22-foot-wide runway (4-22) and plenty of air traffic greet visitors at Put-in-Bay. It's not uncommon to find 60 or more transient airplanes here. Wind surfing, parasailing, folk singing, speed boating, wine tasting, and polka dancing are among the tourist attractions of Put-in-Bay.

Put-in-Bay is actually the sheltered northern bay on South Bass Island, and there are 500 permanent residents on the island. It's a place that has seen little change for decades and holds appeal for fun-loving families, as well as for history buffs. Summer evenings in downtown Put-in-Bay are anything but boring; and at the peak of the season, there may be thousands of boats tied four or five deep on every dock.

The low and the high of the island include a unique underground limestone cave winery, and the view from Perry's monument is unmatched. Several ferry boats cover the island routes each day and offer safe travel for those who care to stay late. Don't expect to find a room on South Bass without reservations. Upon your arrival, check with the airport management for a tiedown and wait by the street for a shuttle cart. A buck will get you nearly anywhere on the island via the many shuttles.

Remember, too, Lake Erie is the walleye capital of the world, boasting an unmatched sport fishery for these great-eating game fish, as well as for smallmouth bass. Charter boats can be arranged during the summer fishing season, which peaks from early April through June. Ice fishing, which centers on the islands because of the tendency for ice floes to "lock in," peaks in late January. Ten- pound walleyes are common.

Believe it or not, the winter months are the busiest at the island airports because that's when the ferry boats are frozen in. On winter weekend days there may be several hundred ice fishermen, residents, commuters, and pilots on freight runs bustling about the runways.

Besides the popular stops at mainland Sandusky, Kelleys, and South Bass Island, there are other island airports in the area, including a grass strip at Middle Bass Island, used mostly by cottage owners, and a paved strip on Pelee Island to the north. Pelee Island is in Canada, so telephone ahead to arrange for a customs agent.

Flying to the islands area can add a special thrill for any pilot, but be cautioned. Traffic may be heavy and is uncontrolled, a mix of private aircraft and the scheduled island operations of Griffing Flying Service. Over-water conditions change rapidly, and sudden haze or fog can limit visibility in seconds. And, there are few days without wind. Don't let those threats hold you back; just be prepared and enjoy Lake Erie's islands.

For more information or a visitor's guide that lists special attractions, services, and facilities, contact: Put-in-Bay Chamber of Commerce, Post Office Box 250, Put-in-Bay, Ohio 43456 (telephone 419/285-2832)or Kelleys Island Chamber of Commerce, Post Office Box 783, Kelleys Island, Ohio 43438 (419/746-2360).

Also, consult AOPA's Aviation USA directory and the Detroit sectional.