Postcards

Light airplanes speed visitors to the bushveld

As one whose childhood coincided with Johnny Weismuller's tenure as Tarzan, I had thought of Africa as a place of steaming jungles, pythons, tsetse flies, and voracious crocodiles. This stereotypical image, of course, describes only a part of the Dark Continent. South Africa, for example, has no jungle, and because it is relatively far from the equator, has a generally mild climate.

South Africa also is a Shangri-la for the general aviation pilot, especially when his reason for being there is to view wildlife. Most of the game reserves are in the remote bushveld, a savanna-like region of low-lying, subtropical vegetation. Although these reserves can be reached by interminable hours on the road, most of the game lodges have their own dirt strips that are easily accessible on rented wings. Besides, I much prefer viewing a charging rhino from above to sighting him abeam.

A flying safari in South Africa usually begins after being disgorged from a Boeing at Johannesburg's Jan Smuts International Airport. There is nothing exceptional to entertain the visitor in this bustling metropolis except perhaps touring an active gold mine (no, samples are not given) or shopping for African art. Those with strong stomachs can visit an African medicine shop, a mysterious, foul-smelling place where a genuine witch doctor sells "remedies" unchanged by time. These include potions, herbs, fangs, claws, dried skins and skulls, bottles of lion fat, grotesquely shaped bones, and other macabre paraphernalia.

Our first morning in Jo'burg, as the locals call it, found us roaming the ramps at nearby Rand Airport, a strictly general aviation facility that reputedly is the busiest airport in the Southern Hemisphere and is almost as well stocked with U.S.-built aircraft as Van Nuys, California, or Teterboro, New Jersey. There we had made arrangements with Beechcraft Sales Limited to rent a B55 Baron and obtain a validation of my U.S. pilot certificate. These required only an aircraft checkout and a short examination covering local regulations, which are similar to our own. A few exceptions include the requirement to carry survival equipment, a prohibition against smoking in an airplane while on the ground, a night rating for flying after sunset, and the need to file a flight plan when flying into or out of terminal airspace.

An instructor briefed us about our impending flight into the "bush." He was particularly emphatic about being methodical when preflighting an airplane parked in the bush. Hyenas, for example, have been known to chew off deicing boots and damage leading edges; at Sohebeli, a lioness gnawed at the tire of an aircraft until it exploded in her face; wildebeests are fond of feeding on fiberglass wing tips (which can be bad gnus); and playful antelopes can perforate aluminum panels with their horns.

Shortly after topping the tanks and double-checking our supply of insect repellent and anti-malaria pills, we were under way, heading southeast toward Durban.

After crossing and marveling at the toothy ridges of the Drakensberg Escarpment, the mountainous spine of Africa, we diverted from the airway and had to rely on correlating the contour lines on the ground with those on the chart. The only difficulty encountered was trying to pronounce the exotic names of passing checkpoints, names that reflect the cultural mix of South Africa. Hartebeespoortdam and Nieuwoudtville, for example, have Afrikaans names, while Mtubatuba and Hluhluwe, I was told, are Zulu.

Our first destination was Hluhluwe in the heart of Zululand. Zululand? More images: throbbing drums, spear-throwing warriors, and bloody massacres. Fortunately, these exist only in the pages of history. Today, the Zulu people are cordial and hospitable, which explains how we were able to visit one of their villages.

Although the Zulus have been swept into a twentieth-century culture, they still retain many traditions. Polygamy, for example, is widespread in rural areas. The number of wives a man can have depends only on how many he can afford to buy. A maiden typically is purchased from her father for a negotiable number of cows. If she later is unable to produce a child, the husband is entitled to a refund. But should she become pregnant before marriage, the father is entitled to a penalty payment of several additional cows. A man's ultimate wealth obviously depends on how many girls his several wives can produce for him.

Although the Zulus have become accustomed to the sight and sound of aircraft passing overhead, some are shocked the first time they see a man or woman climbing out of one.

Zululand also contains the Umfolozi Game Reserve, where the legendary white rhino — once threatened by extinction — now thrives. The area also is an entomologist's delight. Some of the insects there are so large that a saddle and a type rating are needed to ride them; beetles can be larger than gas caps, and flying into one qualifies as a midair collision. Fodor's Animal Parks of Africa recommends that a visitor bring a firm metal fly swatter because a plastic model or a rolled-up newspaper just gives some of the insects enhanced confidence.

After departing Hluhluwe, we made a pass over nearby Lake St. Lucia for a bird's-eye view of the hippos and crocodiles in residence there. But the competition for low-altitude airspace was ferocious. No, there were no other airplanes nearby. It was the colorful pelicans, fish eagles, and flamingos that created the congestion.

Our next stop was the popular Londolozi Game Reserve, which is adjacent to Kruger National Park. (Kruger is larger than the state of New Jersey and reputedly is the best-stocked reserve in the world.)

We flew over Swaziland, passed abeam Mozambique, and later followed the Sand River north from Skukuza. It was easy to spot Londolozi's runway because it appeared to be the only strip of land cleared of elephant mounds. After buzzing the lodge to signal our arrival, we pivoted the Baron on a wing tip for an inspection of the 3,000-foot-long runway.

Fortunately, there were no animals on the strip, not even the family of warthogs reportedly living there. We also eyed the sidelines very carefully. The pilot of a Cessna 414 once failed to drag the airport at nearby MalaMala. He paid the price by ramming into a giraffe loping across the runway. The right wing was sheared outboard of the nacelle. The animal did not fare well, either.

Clearing a runway of four-legged traffic usually requires only a noisy low-altitude pass. But this is not always effective. When clearing impala, for example, it is important not to split the herd. Otherwise, the ewes and rams will cross and recross the runway in a confused attempt to reestablish the herd.

After an uneventful landing, we parked the Baron and timidly opened the door. Although it was remarkably quiet outside, we had been warned about the possibility of being greeted by a lion or leopard. Because this quartet of cowards probably would have quivered in unison at the sight of a garter snake, we remained seated. Our reception committee consisted of a lone male warthog that materialized from behind a thicket. He was so ugly that only a female of the same species (and perhaps not even she) could possibly find him attractive. The hog cautiously circled the Baron, apparently curious about this large bird that had come to roost on his turf. In Africa, the tables are turned; the animals are free, and we were imprisoned in an aluminum cage with wings. Moments later, the rumbling sound of a Land Rover approaching from the lodge sent the warthog scurrying for cover. The driver was Ian Thomas, a ranger and conservationist who later was to take us into the bush where he would protect us and the animals from each other. Accompanying him was Phineas, a Shangaan tribesman noted for his prowess as a tracker.

Londolozi's lodge comfortably accommodates 22 people in chalets that have all the creature comforts, including hot-and-cold running lizards and mosquito nets that dangle protectively above the beds. We had little time to enjoy the pool, however. Most days began with tea before sunrise and were spent tracking game.

The highlight of our stay was a night safari. Twelve guests climbed into three roofless Land Rovers, hoping to track and locate Big Black, a 7-year-old male lion reportedly in the area. Each four-wheel-drive vehicle set off independently into the blackness of the African night, guided primarily by the instincts of its Shangaan tracker. Whoever found Big Black first was to summon the others, using a VHF transceiver.

Our powerful handheld spotlights probed the bush for signs of wildlife. We quickly discovered that the area was teeming with animals. Because the sound of an approaching vehicle causes them to look toward the noise and because their eyes reflect light, many more animals can be found at night than during the day, when they are well camouflaged. Ian mentioned that an experienced tracker can identify an animal by the way its eyes reflect light. "The pinpoints of light reflecting from the ground," he added, "are spiders."

The VHF receiver came alive. "Lion! By the river …." Excited voices. Ian jammed the transmission into first gear, popped the clutch, and shoved the throttle home. We literally crashed through the brush, blazing our own trail through the jungle.

Finally we joined the others at the edge of a thicket. Big Black, "captured" by six spotlights, eyed us warily from under thick brush and was difficult to see.

The rangers shut off the engines and lights, hoping that the lion would feel secure enough to leave cover. It was deathly quiet (except for the sound of my heart pumping at takeoff power). Listening in pitch blackness for the sound of an approaching lion is one of life's most terrifying moments. Moments later, Big Black was on the move … heading directly for us.

"Everyone quiet, absolutely still," whispered Ian. There was only the sound of a rifle shell being loaded slowly into a firing chamber, just in case.

On his command, we turned on the spotlights. And there he was, a 450-pound mass of muscle walking nonchalantly about 10 yards ahead, his head askance as if assessing the danger. And then, with a yawn, he was gone. But the thrill of the encounter marked us for life.

After a late dinner at the lodge, we gathered around a bonfire and listened with fascination as the rangers — in the style of hangar fliers — exchanged tales of the wild. Most interesting was learning about how cornered lions have been known to charge a Land Rover but usually (emphasis mine) stop short as long as no one inside makes any sudden moves. Some game viewers, Ian said, become ill after such a charge.

This communion with the animal world gives a deeper appreciation of the need for ecological balance and conservation than is possible from books, movies, or a zoo. We had been profoundly touched and spent most of the return flight to Johannesburg in silent contemplation.

P.S.

Gulf Shores, Alabama

Everyone should vacation at Alabama's Gulf Shores and visit nearby Mobile and Pensacola. The area is serviced commercially by Mobile and Pensacola regional airports. General aviation may prefer Jack Edwards Airport at Gulf Shores (AL15, 5,400 and 3,600 feet paved; courtesy and rental cars) or Ferguson Field in Pensacola (82J, 3,200 feet paved/turf). Condos are readily available at both Gulf Shores and Perdido Key for reasonable rates.

Fine, white-sand beaches; outlet shopping; great Gulf fishing; fine waterside dining; clear blue-green waters; and friendly folks everywhere. There's fun for every age. Sightseeing by air is very popular (banner tows are down low along the beaches). Pensacola Naval Air Station (home of the Blue Angels), the National Museum of Naval Aviation, and Battleship Alabama Memorial Park are within easy driving distance, and should not be missed.

Mardi Gras parades in February precede nightly Mardi Gras balls. Tickets may be available (contact the Mobile Chamber of Commerce, 334/433-6951).

Mobile's professional baseball (Bay Sharks) and hockey (Mysticks) are very popular in season. Golf is always in season; don't pass up Mobile's Magnolia Grove. Dining is popular and readily available in Mobile and Pensacola. Although the weather is good year 'round, most favor the spring and fall seasons. The Mobile area and Gulf Coast are great places to live, fly, and visit.

Al, AOPA 906848, and Terry Perrone
Mobile, Alabama