Our planet is 70 percent covered by water. But fly very much in the southeastern corner of California and you might begin to believe that most of the remaining 30 percent is desert. From the dusty Mexican border through Thermal and Palm Springs, past Palmdale and Mojave, and right up to Death Valley and Inyokern, California's great desert geography is waiting to be explored.
And it's quite a sight. Broad expanses of what clearly were ancient oceans are ringed by strident mountains. What is a tedious trip through scrublands in an automobile becomes a journey of discovery in an airplane. Many pilots feel that the relative absence of manmade objects in the desert offers them a purer flying experience. Others, perhaps armchair geologists, appreciate seeing nature's blueprint laid bare.
It also makes for great flying if you plan well. Now is the time to go — near the end of spring, before torrid summer temperatures take over. By August and September, temperatures in the low-lying deserts are enough to make the ride uncomfortably hot and bumpy, particularly for fledgling passengers. Late spring is also the season when convective activity is comparatively rare, so you can best appreciate the landscape without having to dodge boomers. In general, springtime desert weather phenomena are fairly benign, but keep an eye on airmets and sigmets for turbulence caused by winds. Most of Southern California's deserts are ringed by mountains, so powerful winds aloft can create tremendous turbulence on the downwind side. With strong winds out of the north, for example, the pass through the Tehachapis can provide an entertaining ride, as can the trip out of the L.A. Basin to Palm Springs through the Banning Pass.
Shoreline flights in the western United States are best appreciated at sunset, but by far the finest hour for desert flying is dawn. Cool, stable air allows you to fly low without testing the tensile strength of your seat belts. You won't be fighting the notorious desert winds on takeoff or landing, either. What's more, the long shadows cast by the sun at the horizon can make even the bleakest landscape seem visually surreal. So, set the clock radio for a predawn wake-up call and get out there while the flying is good.
The second best time to fly is sunset, but the desirability of such a late-day flight has much to do with the winds and temperatures. In the spring, even temperatures in the low-lying deserts are moderate, so you won't have to bake yourself in the cockpit; but often the winds won't diminish until after dark.
Navigation can be worrisome for pilots used to more obvious and familiar landmarks. No-tably, the preponderance of military operations areas (MOAs) and restricted areas can provoke some sweating in the left seat. Best that you study the sectional carefully beforehand and have your moving-map GPS set up and ready for the flight. Most of the MOAs and restricted areas are easy enough to find through ground references, but a good moving-map display will truly liberate you. Bear in mind that you may be hemmed in by special-use airspace; should the need arise to avoid adverse weather, keep your options open by maintaining weather awareness.
Determine and understand the performance limitations of your airplane — especially takeoff and climb performance. Many desert airstrips reside at 2,000 or 3,000 feet msl, and even late-spring temperatures can make the density altitude soar. Also, a good many of the more interesting landing spots have fairly short runways. Consult your operating handbook to see if the trip is feasible with healthy margins. Airplane limitations are another good reason to fly early and late in the day.
Finally, because services and assistance can be miles and hours away in the event of a mechanical problem or off-airport landing, be sure to pack a rudimentary tool kit, a survival kit, and plenty of water. It's this last point that can't be overemphasized. You could very easily do everything right and walk away from an accident only to die in the desert without water — it's that simple. Consider a half-gallon per person an absolute minimum. Also, check out the Web site www.equipped.com for excellent suggestions on making up your own survival kits.
So, where to go? There are many possibilities, but here are some highlights.
Head south and have a tour of the Salton Sea, which averages about 230 feet below msl. It is California's largest lake and during the winter is home to more than four million birds. (Don't park your airplane outside.) Closest access by air is Cliff Hatfield Memorial Airport in Calipatria along the lake's southeastern shore, but there are no services there; for a rental car and fuel you'll need to land to the north, at Thermal Airport, or farther west at Borrego Valley Airport in Borrego Springs. Borrego Valley also has a number of quality resorts; look in AOPA's Airport Directory for details.
Continue your tour north into the high desert and make your next stop Hi Desert Airport, near the Joshua Tree National Monument. There's a hotel on the field and fuel available — and the scenery is simply magnificent.
Turn northwest and make for Mojave Airport. Arguably the aeronautical high-tech hub of the west, this airport sports not just the highest concentration of new-think projects and punishing flight-test activity of any airport outside of the fabled Edwards Air Force Base, but also an eerie collection of jumbo jets parked on the hard-pack like retirees surrounding a resort pool. Mojave is deceptive. Just when it seems as if nothing's going to happen, you might be greeted with a flight of one of Burt Rutan's envelope-bursting designs or a nondescript airliner with bumps and bulges that betray technological leaps.
A quick hop to the west you'll find Mountain Valley airport, in the Tehachapi valley. It's home to an active sailplane operation and some of the best soaring conditions on the West Coast; the surrounding valley is a natural venturi into the Mojave desert, so afternoon winds are nearly assured. There's an outstanding snack bar at Mountain Valley, too. The strip is part dirt, part gravel, part pavement, but plenty smooth and long for most light aircraft. Keep a keen eye out for the sailplanes, though.
No trip through the California desert would be complete without a stop in Death Valley. The mother of all places desolate and remote, Death Valley's touchdown point is the Furnace Creek Airport. Within walking distance of town, the airport resides in textbook desert — sprawling landscapes, copious sand, penetrating summer heat, and capricious winds. It's not to be missed.
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