Postcards

An airplane is the way to explore Cape Cod

While there may be many places in this country that are beautiful enough to earn the description "God’s country," when flying over the sand-swept beaches and steel-blue surf of Cape Cod and the islands of Massachusetts, one can’t help but think that God took a little extra time here.

This is the perfect time to begin planning for a flight to the Cape and islands of Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard this spring or summer. Flying to the many picturesque and unique towns of the Cape is much preferable to driving—traffic snarls, backups, and booked ferries are a given from Memorial Day through Labor Day. Cape Cod is a peninsula located off the southeastern shore of Massachusetts. The Cape itself is shaped somewhat like a bent human arm; residents will illustrate where their town is located by holding out their arm and pointing to, say, their elbow, where Chatham would be situated—or to their fist, where Provincetown is located far out into Cape Cod Bay and the Atlantic Ocean. The islands of Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard are both about 25 nautical miles south of the Cape’s tricep. Two bridges bring automobile travelers onto the Cape and ferries run back and forth from the mainland to the islands, but there are nine friendly general aviation airports here, and most areas are accessible by bicycle or taxi.

Cape Cod and the islands are remarkably welcoming to GA pilots. While other visitors will see the Cape from the highway, you’ll see the beauty of this unique area as only the birds and God can.

Nantucket: The Gray Lady

If Nantucket Memorial Airport (ACK) seems familiar, it’s because it was the setting for the television show Wings, which involved the day-to-day experiences of two brothers who owned one of the island’s two competing regional airlines. In reality, the show loosely depicts Cape Air, the region’s largest short-haul airline, which itself seems to own half of all 400-series twin Cessnas ever built. It has seen explosive growth since its start-up in 1989 and recently expanded to serve islands in the Caribbean in addition to its Cape and Boston routes. Nantucket is the second busiest airport in Massachusetts during the tourist season, although it is often shrouded in mist and fog—even in the summer—giving the island its affectionate nickname, The Gray Lady.

Taxi drivers listen to scanners to learn when GA aircraft will be landing; you’ll rarely have to wait for one of the island’s many cabs, although the terminal, refurbished six years ago, is expansive and offers a comfortable waiting area. Hutch’s Restaurant is interesting, with old photographs of the airport and aircraft lining the walls. A three-mile ride from the airport, the town of Nantucket can only be described as charming: cobblestone streets; artistic shops with hand-painted signage; a picturesque pier with hardworking fishing boats and gracious sloops moored side by side; artisans such as the Nantucket basket weavers working outside in the sunlight; and vegetable-laden farmers’ markets offering locally grown produce. The inns throughout the town are historic and gracious.

Provincetown: A Colorful History

Provincetown has had a reputation for accommodating interesting lifestyles since its shores were first visited by the Pilgrims in 1620 (yes, the Pilgrims stopped here first, but the lack of fresh water pushed them on to Plymouth). Portuguese whalers settled the town in the 1680s. Their influence is still felt in the cuisine of the area and can be seen in the names of the fishing boats still actively working the Atlantic waters. Provincetown’s Portuguese Bakery was established in 1900. Since 1976, it has been owned and operated by Tony and Mina Ferreira. Try the Portuguese Sweet Bread or the "Pasteis Nata," pastry once featured on the television program Good Morning America. Later, artists discovered Provincetown and its laid-back lifestyle, and the farthermost Cape town became an artists’ colony. Today, Provincetown has a diverse community of artists, fishermen, and those who embrace alternative lifestyles. If you plan to stay at one of Provincetown’s lovely inns, you’ll be more comfortable if you first establish the inn’s usual—or unusual—clientele.

Provincetown Municipal Airport (PVC) is situated on Race Point Beach near the old lifesaving museum. Bike trails begin here through the Province Lands—watch for sand dunes and sand on the trails that can turn you and your bicycle head over handlebars. Pilots sign in at a small outpost near the runway. Of interest is the caution to keep small pets on leashes, as coyotes roam this outermost part of the Cape. The taxi ride into Provincetown takes about 15 minutes, and the local cab companies have set a fixed price—it’s not cheap—for the trip to and from the airport.

Chatham: By the Sea

The town of Chatham—situated deep in the elbow of the Cape—was an insider’s paradise until nature and the network news exposed its charm in the late 1980s. Savage winter storms ripped at Chatham’s shoreline, dragging summer homes into the sea. The loss of expensive and historic homes and the wrath of the sea brought news cameras to this town—one of three on the south side of the Cape referred to as the "Quiet Resorts"—and gave away the locals’ best-kept secret. Flying into Chatham Municipal Airport (CQX), you can see how influential the sea has been on the area. The Atlantic Ocean, Nantucket Sound, and Pleasant Bay make it appear that the 16 square miles of Chatham are mostly water. Fishing is important to the town, and the Chatham Fishing Pier is a great spot to see the watermen at work. Nickerson’s Fish Market is a landmark where you can buy fresh fish and lobster. The sand sharks caught by Chatham’s fishermen will travel quite a way from their native shore—to England for fish and chips and to Germany where the belly flaps are made into jerky. If you fly to Chatham from the south, the Monomoy Wildlife Refuge is under your flight path and you are urged to stay at least 2,000 feet agl. Chatham’s charming Main Street, with its award-winning restaurants and unique shops, is two miles from the airport. But if you’re hungry when you land, The Breakaway Café overlooks the runway and offers breakfast and burgers.

Martha’s Vineyard: Meet the Rich and Famous

Don’t be surprised if you land at Martha’s Vineyard Airport (MVY) and think you see someone famous. The area has been called the 90210 of the East Coast. Besides the Kennedy family, Martha’s Vineyard is the summer digs for many actors and actresses, musicians, politicians, and other celebrities. Residents will direct you to the various beaches and towns on the Vineyard by referring to up island and down island. The terms have roots in maritime history: When a ship travels down its longitude, it is heading east; when traveling up its longitude, it’s heading west. The western parts of the island—West Tisbury, Chilmark, and Aquinnah—are up island; the eastern towns of Vineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs, and Edgartown are down island. Near Edgartown is the Katama Airpark (1B2), where Mel’s Diner offers the proverbial hundred-dollar hamburger. Katama has several grass strips located so close to the shore that AOPA’s Airport Directory notes you can taxi to the beach. Call ahead to check on runway conditions prior to settling in on Katama’s turf.

Martha’s Vineyard Airport is the only airport in Massachusetts owned and operated by a county. At the start of America’s involvement in World War II, Naval air stations were expanded, including the small base at Martha’s Vineyard. When the war ended, the local county commissioners realized the wisdom of purchasing a fully developed airport. You’ll need to take a taxi or ride the shuttle bus to most parts of the island from the airport. Each area has its own personality. Vineyard Haven is the "year-round" town that does not close when the summer season ends. Chilmark is a pastoral fishing village (and also the harbor where the movie Jaws was filmed). Oak Bluffs was established in 1835 as a Methodist meeting camp. Edgartown is the tony summer shopping village, and Aquinnah is home to the massive 150-foot cliffs at Gay Head.

Links to additional information on flying to Cape Cod and the Islands can be found on AOPA Online ( www.aopa.org/pilot/links/links0003.shtml). E-mail the author at [email protected].