The Owens Valley runs north and south. It lies west of the more famous (and smaller in size) Death Valley. Death Valley may be better known, yet this valley has played a critical role in California's history. Indeed if William Mulholland, then superintendent for the water department of the City of Los Angeles, hadn't quietly bought up huge parcels of Owens Valley in the early 1900s, the development of the second largest city in the United States might have taken a decidedly different turn.
The big airport at the small town of Bishop still has a small-town feel. This is rural California blended with splendid fishing in nearby lakes and rivers, alpine hiking and camping, unspoiled mountain lakes, a nearby preserve of the oldest living trees in the world, and sparkling fresh air.
Where?
Situated in America's deepest valley, the Owens Valley, and between the two highest and wildest mountain ranges in the contiguous United States, the Sierra Nevada and White Mountains, Bishop is located in Inyo County along U.S. Highway 395.
The airports of Bishop
There are five airports that provide access to the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada — with four in the Owens Valley. Traveling up-valley from the south, Lone Pine Airport is located abeam of Mount Whitney, the highest spot in the contiguous United States. Independence Airport, 16 miles north of Lone Pine; Bishop Airport, 34 miles north of Lone Pine; and finally Mammoth Yosemite Airport, 27 air miles north of Bishop, give Owens Valley-bound pilots a variety of destinations. The valley rises as one flies north — Lone Pine is at 3,680 feet msl, Independence at 3,900 feet msl, Bishop at 4,120 feet msl, and Mammoth at 7,128 feet msl.
There are two instrument approaches into Bishop — but the en route altitude from both the west and the east is 16,000 feet. After crossing the Bishop VOR, which is on the field, the approach directs the pilot to let down to 12,000 feet in an over-the-field holding pattern before proceeding outbound for the procedure turn to the VOR approach.
With a maximum elevation figure (MEF) of 14,600 feet on sectional charts in the quadrangles both east and west of Bishop, many pilots elect to fly into the airport by flying up the Owens Valley from the south. Fly-in visitors from the west will want to ensure that they have plenty of altitude (we ascended to 13,500 feet for the last 30 miles before dropping down into Bishop) because of high mountains and poor radio coverage. Any time the winds aloft at 12,000 feet exceed 20 knots from the west, it's a guarantee that pilots should be aware of their passengers' turbulence-tolerance level; letting down on the lee side of a mountain range when the winds aloft exceed 20 knots can result in a wild ride.
Pilots flying up the valley from the south should also give the western side of the valley a wide berth for the same reason. In general, it's best to fly near mountainous terrain and in mountainous valleys early in the day before thermal heating starts to create updrafts.
Small-town Bishop
Bishop Airport was built during World War II and has weathered the intervening years well. There are three intersecting runways. We landed on Runway 30 (up-valley) and took off down-valley on Runway 16.
It's a very pretty airport and town. Sharp-eyed pilots and passengers will notice the Lower Owens River that runs just to the east of the airport — this river is regularly stocked with both brown and rainbow trout. We let down and taxied to transient parking, which is directly in front of a new terminal building. Inside we found a well-equipped pilot lounge and the Sierra Wings restaurant.
The old, and decidedly rickety, airport restaurant that was a fixture for years was finally torn down a few years ago. The Sierra Wings restaurant is open from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. seven days a week and breakfast is served all day.
The airport is located two miles from town. It's a long walk, but Dial-A-Ride (760/872-1901) will come and pick you up and there are several local car rental companies. I rented a car from U-Save car rental (760/872-1070). The agent told me my rental would be parked under the tree, and that the keys would be on the floor.
Additional information regarding transportation, restaurants, and lodging is available in AOPA's Airport Directory online ( www.aopa.org/members/airports/) and on the Bishop, California, Web site ( www.bishopweb.com).
Erick Schat's bakery
If you head to town you should go to the bakery. Erick Schat's world-famous bakery, the original home of Sheepherder bread, is a wonderland of tasty baked treats. There's also a restaurant on site. It's a great place to enjoy the artistry of a good baker, fuel up the pilot and flight crew, and stock up on baked goodies for the trip home. For more information visit the Web site ( www.erickschatsbakery.com).
Bishop Creek Canyon
Bishop Creek Canyon is west of town. Drive straight across Highway 395, the north-south arterial that runs the length of the valley, and head up into the John Muir Wilderness. Within minutes the very rugged mountains of the relatively young southern range of the Sierra Nevada will begin to fill your windshield.
It's a 14-mile drive up to Salina Lake. The names of campgrounds along the route sound wonderful — Mountain Glen, Aspen Meadow, and Willow Camp, to name just a few. A few miles before reaching Salina Lake there's a turnoff to the left to South Lake. The parking lot at this colorful alpine lake is a good starting point for a couple of easy day hikes, and some very long and strenuous alpine treks. The fishing in South Lake is good, as it is in many of the isolated lakes and streams in the John Muir Wilderness. Locals say that "olive woolie buggers size 8 and Caddis flies" will slay them every time.
The Laws Railroad Museum
Beginning in 1880, narrow (36-inch)-gauge railroad tracks were laid from Mound House, Nevada, southward for 300 miles through the Owens Valley. This train line was later used to transport machinery and equipment up the Owens Valley for the construction of the Owens Valley Aqueduct, which carried a lion's share of the Owens Valley fresh water overland to the rapidly growing City of Los Angeles.
One of the stops was at Laws, which is located a few miles north and east of the center of Bishop. The Laws Railroad Museum and Historical Site covers 11 acres and is open daily from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. The original 1883 vintage depot, agent's house, water and oil towers, and turn-table are still there, as well as many other reconstructed period buildings such as a blacksmith shop, wagon barn, and ranch house.
The last train to Laws pulled up on April 30, 1960, and is now part of the museum exhibit. For more information on the Laws Railroad Museum and for additional information on Bishop and the Bishop area, visit the Web sites ( www.visitbishop.com and www.bishopvisitor.com).
Methuselah
Directly east of Bishop, high up near the top of the White Mountains, is the Schulman Grove Visitor Center. Spread over six miles along the crest of these peaks, which form the eastern boundary of the Owens Valley, is a grove of bristlecone pine trees, which are the oldest living trees known to man. The oldest of the trees, named Methuselah, is 4,767 years old. These slow-growing trees have adapted to the very dry air (the annual rainfall is only 12 inches) and harsh growing conditions that exist at the Schulman grove and at six other sites in the western states. For more information, and driving directions, visit the Web site ( www.sonic.net/bristlecone/intro.html).
Bishop is a small town that straddles the main highway in the Owens Valley. By far, the best way to get there is to fly in and land at one of the airports. If fishing's your game, there is no end to the lakes, rivers, and streams loaded with fish. There are also hiking, camping, and sightseeing opportunities close by. Since it's separated from the rest of the state by a rugged range of high mountains, the air is fresh and clear. And Erick Schat's bakery is not to be missed.
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