Postcards

Mexico's welcome mat is out for GA pilots

We inch the power back and start a slow descent over Bahía de los Muertos. My son and I are in Baja California, Mexico, south of La Paz. Now about seven miles out, there on a rocky promontory surrounded by sea and desert, we can clearly see the hard-surface runway at Punta Pescadero, our final destination.

But we're in no hurry. We are going to enjoy this spectacular approach. Descending to pattern altitude we chase our shadow along a white, wide sweep of a deserted beach. Not another airplane for miles. We turn base over sparkling waters and have a sea gull's view of several contented fishing boats anchored in the clear, shallow waters below.

After 6.7 hours of elapsed traveling time we have arrived on Baja's distant East Cape, about 55 miles northeast of Cabo San Lucas.

Bad press

We had been to Baja and the Mexican mainland on many previous occasions, but why, we wondered, did flying to Mexico still get such bad press among general aviation pilots? In talking with many of them, few had ever been there. Yet they spoke with such authority on the dangers of being stranded, aircraft theft, the high cost of fuel, and the complications of border crossing. There is no doubt that over the years some pilots have endured bad experiences. But today, after many improvements, is a new generation of U.S. pilots simply fearing fear itself?

Jack McCormick has been president of Baja Bush Pilots (BBP) since 1996, but his love affair with Mexico started back in 1970 when he first flew there in an old Cessna. Today the organization he leads has more than 1,600 members. As well as disseminating reliable information and leading flying tours to Mexico and Central America, he acts for the common good of all GA pilots. McCormick meets frequently with both the Mexican Civil Aviation Authority's Directorate General of Civil Aviation, and the Mexican National Tourism Council to smooth the way for member pilots. He acts as a lobbyist for U.S. pilots and as a sounding board in communicating any problems his members have encountered south of the border.

Recently McCormick has worked with Mexican officials to implement a multi-entry permit similar to that allowed by the United States, and he recently presided at the international Amigos de la Aviacion meeting covering issues critical to flying in Mexico. He is working toward better standardization of fees, increased credit card acceptance for fuel and other services at designated airports, the ability for U.S. pilots to depart Mexico without having to first clear through a Mexican international airport, and a hard-and-fast ruling on airport closure times so that U.S. pilots can be guaranteed necessary services. "I have a list of 16 key issues I am determined to get resolved with the Mexican authorities for the good of visiting pilots and to improve fly-in tourism to Mexico," says McCormick.

Flight test

We put it to the test. Without any special rights or privileges my younger son Christian, an avid traveler and captain for a commuter airline, and I flew a 775-nautical-mile trip from our home base in Van Nuys, California, to Baja Sur.

We departed early, and once we were on top of an especially thick and lingering marine layer, we went direct to Calexico, California, an official U.S. point of entry (see " Baja: The Facts," page 107). Our Beechcraft F33A Bonanza's reserve capacity was just short of making the Loreto leg with this first stop. We had filed our defense VFR flight plan, in both directions, with San Diego Flight Service (FSS) the previous night. On climbout from Calexico we called San Diego and opened the southbound leg. We were given an immediate clearance to cross the border. A quick left turn and we were southbound and now in Mexico.

As instructed we called Mexicali Tower and were asked to call again 30 miles south. From then on we navigated on our own, making only occasional position reports. There is no radar in most of Mexico. However, the flashing transponder reply light reminded us that Uncle Sam was tracking aircraft south of the border too.

Spectacular scenery

Baja California is an 800-mile-long peninsula of biodiversity flanked by the Pacific Ocean to the west and the Sea of Cortez to the east. To the north it's bordered by both Arizona and California.

It's a harsh land of spectacular contrasts with rugged mountains, deserts, and miles of great beaches. The waters off both coasts teem with fish: a sportsman's paradise below mostly cloudless, uncrowded, cobalt-blue skies. What pilot wouldn't want to fly here?

Our direct routing took us offshore as we trimmed the curve off the giant peninsula. The Sea of Cortez is dotted with dozens of islands. The largest is the 42-mile-long Isla Angel de la Guarda, a mostly deserted, mountainous, and foreboding piece of real estate.

Many visitors charter boats from La Paz to sail these waters to fish and relax, and to find secluded anchorage in one of the many peaceful bays they can claim as their own. Crossing over the island we looked down a moonscape of ancient landforms, canyons, and arid valleys. Few places in the world offer Baja's dramatic scenery: red rocks and beige deserts, steep cliffs, and white beaches falling away to warm blue waters of every hue.

The six-cylinder Continental engine purred as we flew south, skirting coastal towns such as Santa Rosalía and quaint Mulegé, and around the protected bays and sheltered inlets of the 20-mile-long Bahía Concepción. Our filed point of entry was Loreto and now the little town and airport came into sight. The Jesuits made Loreto the first permanent Spanish settlement in Baja in 1697 and for a while it was the capital of all the Californias. Today the city is in the early stages of redevelopment by Fonatur, the government body that brought the world such master-planned resorts as Cancun and Ixtapa.

It was a hot day and a stiff crosswind was blowing as we were cleared for the straight-in to Runway 16. Getting through immigration and customs was easy. We went from one air-conditioned office to another and obediently sat before each officer as he tapped away on his computer and then rubber-stamped, with great officialdom, our documents.

Technology has come to Mexico but the bureaucracy persists. We paid the necessary fees, all of which appeared to be recorded and receipted, with never a hint of any impropriety. Next we took on fuel, enough to get us to our final destination and back to Loreto. This, too, was handled with professionalism, and as with all of our transactions, we paid in U.S. dollars. Avgas is only sold at eight airports on the Baja peninsula so careful flight planning is essential.

We departed, climbing straight out, with just 157 miles to go, our route now increasingly punctuated by islands of every size. We approached La Paz's strategically formed islands, which, resolute and unyielding in their primeval forms, made a natural fortification for the harbor. La Paz was once a center for pearling, fishing, and mining. Today, tourism is numero uno.

Welcome mat

Mexico's tourism business is now $9 billion strong, employing thousands of service personnel in all sectors. Few countries are blessed with Mexico's tourism assets: pre-Columbian, colonial, and contemporary cultures; a wonderful climate; and a polyglot mix of peoples in a land of mountains, beaches, and deserts. "Mexico has a highly developed tourism plan and is anxious to share all this with visitors," says Javier Vega. And he should know.

The affable Vega is the former president of the Mexican National Tourist Council. Today, he heads up the Central American Tourist Agency (CATA). "The U.S. is our largest market but we cannot neglect any one sector. For a number of years now we have been improving our infrastructure for private aviators. We especially value this traveler. They are active, more adventurous, and keen to learn about our culture."

Vega says that although Mexico is sometimes criticized for its lack of progress in certain areas pertaining to civil aviation, the government is working at it. Many of these changes require inter-government cooperation and this takes time in a big country where resources are not always available. As tourism has grown substantially in Baja so have the facilities for visiting pilots. Cabo San Lucas is now the fastest-growing tourism destination in Mexico, evidenced by more and more private and corporate aircraft now seen on the ramp there.

In Central America the participating governments of CATA (Belize, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Honduras, Guatemala, Nicaragua, and Panama), while in varying states of preparedness, have high expectations for tourism. Once closed by war or badly damaged by Hurricane Mitch, these Latin American countries are the rising stars of tourism. It is now possible to fly all the way to Panama and see both the Pacific and Caribbean en route.

"There are many Mayan sites to see, undiscovered beaches, and national parks to visit," says Vega. "We see U.S. private pilots as the pathfinders. They have the interest and ability to get in and out of our smaller airports and will spread the word about their wonderful discoveries on their return."

Experience of a lifetime

We called La Paz and gave the controller our position. He politely asked us to check in again before we started our descent.

Relaxed and renewed after a couple of wonderful days of fishing and beach time we made the return journey with the same ease.

As we had filed Calexico as our U.S. airport of entry, we called 100 miles out and updated our arrival time. It is most important to arrive at the U.S. airport on time. On arrival U.S. officials were quick, efficient, and friendly.

A trip to Mexico by general aviation aircraft is an experience of a lifetime — and getting there and back gets easier all the time.

Patrick J. Mathews, AOPA 1134012, of Studio City, California, is a 1,400-hour private pilot. A freelance writer, he owns a 1993 Beechcraft F33A Bonanza.

Baja: The Facts

A trip to Mexico is within the reach and abilities of many U.S. pilots. However, it is important to be well prepared and to educate yourself on what to expect and to go with a healthy respect for the Mexican people and their culture. We experienced only kindness and gracious treatment from the people we met on our trip. We had no problems with the English-speaking air traffic controllers. Our aircraft was never in danger and we had no concern for its security while tied down. The taxiways and runways were well marked and maintained. Our trip time to Baja was 5.6 hours one way on the Hobbs, including the stop in Loreto.

Costs for entry formalities

You must enter Mexico through an official airport of entry. We paid $126 for the two of us. The price included what appeared to be set fees for the following: one-time entry fee, $48; landing fee, $25 (two landings); and immigration fee, $45. Immigration services on departure were $8 for two people.

Navigation

Just one world aeronautical chart, CH-22, covers the entire peninsula. Most GPS databases also cover this part of Mexico. However, be aware that some only cover the northern half of Baja, which is contiguous with the southwestern United States, and they only contain airports with an ICAO identifier. You can navigate using VORs. The Santa Rosaía VOR was not working when we went by and there are no notams. It is not permitted to fly VFR at night.

When to go?

We went in June. The weather was a balmy 75 degrees Fahrenheit; however, the winter months are preferred. Late summer and fall is prime season for tropical storms and hurricanes. (Witness Hurricane Ignacio in late August, which made landfall in Cabo San Lucas, and its high winds caused moderate damage.)

Fuel costs and availability

The average price of avgas in Mexico is about U.S. $3.25 per gallon (3.79 liters to a U.S. gallon). We paid $2.95 per gallon in Loreto. Cash only, in U.S. dollars, is accepted.

What to take?

• Proof of U.S. citizenship (passport or birth certificate).
• Aircraft registration. If you are not the owner you must have a notarized statement of permission.
• Pilot certificate and current medical certificate.
• Mexican liability insurance. You cannot enter Mexico with just your U.S. insurance. A Mexican insurer must issue this insurance. It can be arranged quickly via fax. Ask your insurance company for assistance. Some policies include this in their U.S. coverage, as mine does, but require that you advise the insurance company of your travel dates in Mexico prior to departure.
• If you have minor children, and both parents are not going, you must have notarized permission from the absentee parent.

Reentry into the United States

This too is simple. You must depart Mexico from an official airport of entry, surrendering your Form GCH 40, received upon entry, if you entered on a single-entry basis.

Before reentry into the United States, at a designated airport of entry, you must file a new flight plan with the nearest FSS with at least one hour's notice or amend the existing one you have filed with at least 30 minutes notice. You are required to land within 15 minutes of your scheduled time. Do not arrive early.

There is a $25 annual fee for U.S. Customs service. You can affix this decal to your aircraft, as it is good for multiple crossings for a year from the date of purchase. Another good reason to go back to Mexico! — PJM