Three out of four Healdsburg residents, when asked how they entertain out-of-town visitors, answered, "We just go out to eat and drink a little wine." The locals have all banded together to perpetrate a citywide ruse intended to downplay the attractions of this pretty town.
Although it's located only 75 miles north of San Francisco just off Highway 101, Healdsburg doesn't have the feel (or the towering signs advertising gas, motels, and eats) of a highway town. The quiet pace, plus the many recreational adventures nearby, helps explain why fly-in visitors will time spent in Healdsburg.
Healdsburg is located at the center of the Russian River Wine Road (RRWR), an association of wineries and lodgings that work together to cater to and accommodate visitors.
Where?
Healdsburg is situated between Fitch Mountain to the east and a range of low mountains to the west, 75 miles north of San Francisco off Highway 101 in Sonoma County. Healdsburg Municipal Airport (O31) is located three miles north of the city.
The RRWR winds through the Sonoma County regions of Chalk Hill, Green Valley, Dry Creek Valley, Alexander Valley, and Russian River Valley. Healdsburg is located at the north end of the Russian River Valley region, but the Healdsburg Municipal Airport is half a dozen miles north in Dry Creek Valley.
The Healdsburg airport is a welcoming place — it's clean and well groomed, the avgas prices are kept low ($2.35 a gallon for 100LL at press time), and the activity level is slow to moderate. It's surrounded by the green of agricultural order and framed by soft hills covered with oak woodlands. The single runway is 2,707 feet long by 60 feet wide and, according to local pilots, winds are almost always aligned down the centerline. The runway at Healdsburg is 278 feet above sea level. Good-neighbor flying dictates that traffic patterns at Healdsburg be flown to the west of the airport to reduce the possibility of noise complaints. Pilots are also asked to alter course to a 150-degree heading after departure from runway 13, and to a 290-degree heading after departure from Runway 31. The field recently has been the subject of an unofficial campaign to shut down the airport, so please don't add fuel to this fire — flying responsibly reduces the number of complaints from noise-sensitive airport neighbors.
The nearest instrument approaches are at Sonoma County Airport in Santa Rosa, located 11 miles southeast of the Healdsburg airport. During spring weekends, when the marine layer fog creeps up the valley from the San Francisco Bay area, the Sonoma County approaches can get busy. Since it's farther up the valley than Sonoma County, the fog often burns off over the Healdsburg airport when its neighbor is still socked in.
Although guidebooks list the airport-to-town distance as three miles, the distance to the older, and more compelling, part of town is more like five miles.
Since there's no restaurant on the airport, and trying to get by on vending machine food would be foolish in a town that has so many good restaurants and bistros, the best bet is to call Hertz (707/433-8993) or Enterprise (707/431-9390) a few days ahead of time and reserve a car. Reservations are critical for weekend visits. A taxi can be summoned from Santa Rosa if rental cars aren't available. Call ahead to check if your hotel provides shuttle service for fly-in visitors — an unofficial survey revealed that such service is rare. The Healdsburg visitors center Web site ( www.healdsburg.org) can supply lodging and dining guides, as well as a calendar of events. California residents can phone the visitors center toll free at 800/648-9922. The byways of Sonoma County are wildly popular with bicyclists, and it's an easy ride into town if you bring your own bike. If not, you can rent a mountain, road, or tandem bike (complete with helmet, lock, backpack, and map) and get tour tips from The Spoke Folk in Healdsburg ( www.spokefolk.com or 707/433-7171).
The town square and the tree walk
Around 1857, Harmon Heald laid out a town grid around the town square, or plaza, and sold lots for $15 each. The square is a good place to start in Healdsburg. Attractions include a self-guided tree walk (which features more than 48 separate species) that starts and ends at the plaza. There's also a self-guided architectural tour featuring historic buildings of Healdsburg.
The Healdsburg Museum, on Matheson Street a short distance from the plaza, occupies a well-restored Carnegie Library built for Healdsburg in 1910. Artifacts from Pomo and Wappo Indian life, and an extensive research library draw visitors to this museum. Inside, one wall is nearly covered by a huge painting completed in 1876 by Elizabeth Rockwell of legendary stage driver Clark Foss. Foss was known as far east as Boston for his skill in guiding his horse-drawn coach along steep mountain roads to deliver the lame and the curious to the healing waters of the geysers, natural springs located 18 miles northeast of town, that were reputed to have marvelous recuperative powers.
Trees, a fountain, and a gazebo fill the plaza, which is surrounded by a variety of shops and eateries. The Hotel Healdsburg, an upscale hostelry that includes The Spa ( www.hotelhealdsburg.com), is right on the square. The largest hand-fan collection in the world is also housed in the Hotel Healdsburg. See the collection Web site ( www.handfanmuseum.com) for more information.
A farmer's market that circles the square on Tuesdays from 4 to 6:30 pm, lays out a feast of fresh food and produce — and is a wonderful tribute to local growers. The visitors center also can provide a farm trails map so visitors can go directly to local producers and load up on farm-fresh products.
Out and about
Fourteen miles north of town is Lake Sonoma, a 2,700-acre lake that is an ideal place to fish, water ski, swim, canoe, and boat. Surrounded by an 8,000-acre wildlife area, the lake boasts 15 primitive campsites accessible by boat, horseback, or hiking trail, as well as 96 drive-up sites in the Liberty Glen campground.
Trowbridge Canoes can outfit visitors with gear for a variety of trips down the Russian River. Visit the Web site ( www.trowbridgecanoe.com) or contact them by telephone at 800/640-1386. Russian River Adventures offers guided tours. Call 707/433-5599 or see the Web site ( www.russianriveradventures.com).
In Guerneville, which is a 30 minute drive west of Healdsburg, there's an 805-acre grove of redwoods. The oldest, the Colonel Armstrong redwood named after the lumberman who set aside the grove in the 1870s, is more than 1,400 years old. There are hikes and tours. A nearby stable rents horses. For more information visit the state parks Web site ( www.parks.ca.gov/default.asp?page_id=450).
Wine grapes have been grown in the Healdsburg area for more than 130 years, and some of the RRWR firms have been in business, allowing for a short break during Prohibition, for more than 100 years.
Although Napa County's wine grapes may get more press, Sonoma County and Healdsburg wines are well known to wine lovers. If you are new to the world of California wines, and don't yet know the difference between an appellation and an appaloosa, or you still are a little fuzzy on the differences between the major California wine varietals, school is in at any of the more than 90 wineries that populate the Russian River Wine Road. For more information, visit the Web site ( www.wineroad.com) or call 800/723-6336.
Barry Holloway and Deborah Fields, who team up to run Healdsburg Aviation recommends a small lakeside picnic area that's located just beyond the windsock by the midfield hangars on the west side of the airport. Deborah also touts the Mazzocco vineyard ( www.mazzocco.com), which is just a short walk from the airplane tiedowns, as a good place to get started living the Healdsburg way — outdoor adventures topped off by eating well and drinking a little wine — when you fly in to visit this quiet corner of California's northern wine country.
P.S. I didn't get a chance to visit the Madrona Manor ( www.madronamanor.com), but it looks like a must-visit on my romantic getaways list for the future.
E-mail the author at [email protected].
