All-winter backcountry access

Carved by the Snake River, Hells Canyon forms part of the border between Idaho and Oregon, and is North America’s deepest river gorge: 7,993 feet from He Devil Peak to the river. The Memaloose and Lord Flat airstrips, perched precariously near the rim’s edge on the Oregon side, can be snow-covered well into June, but airstrips inside the canyon, which sit on sandbars above the river, are usually available all year. Land on a Hells Canyon airstrip and you can enjoy excellent hikes and wildlife viewing; fish for steelhead, sturgeon, or bass; or simply revel in the rugged beauty and solitude.

A section of the Idaho Aeronautical Chart shows all the airstrips mentioned in this article, all of which lie near the Oregon/Idaho border except Rogersburg, on the Washington/Idaho border. Note the location of the cable crossing between Dug Bar and Salmon Bar. Courtesy Galen Hanselman, Q.E.I. Publishing.

Two Hells Canyon airstrips, however, offer longer runways and safer approaches. Dug Bar is 20 nautical miles north of Big Bar on the Oregon side of the Snake, with a 1,645-foot runway that allows approaches or departures to be made from either end. You don’t need a “bush plane” to operate here. Meanwhile, Temperance Creek, directly across the river from Big Bar, is the Cadillac of Hells Canyon airstrips, with a 2,350-foot runway that can be approached from either direction and a wonderful guest lodge with great down-home cooking. You can even go for a guided hunting, fishing, hiking, or photography trip with Hells Canyon Packers, based at the Temperance Creek Lodge.

Before you go, buy the book almost every Idaho backcountry pilot carries in the cockpit: Fly Idaho! 3rd Edition. Inside, you’ll find complete information and photos of Idaho’s airstrips, plus those across the Oregon border, like Dug Bar and Temperance Creek. Order a copy of the Idaho Aeronautical Chart too, because it shows the locations of many strips not shown on FAA sectionals. Study the photo captions in this article for important flight, safety, and seaplane information.

Alanis and Emma know that Festus, the 30+-year-old mule at Temperance Creek Ranch, loves to have his head scratched. Festus and the ranch’s other friendly mule can usually be found hanging out near the lodge. Photo by Alan Bobo.

At Dug Bar, camping is free and you can fish from shore, though you need an Oregon fishing license. In January, steelhead frequent a large rapid downstream from the strip. Bass and salmon are also caught; in summer during slow water, people fish for sturgeon and carp. Hiking is excellent from Dug Bar; try the Nez Perce (Nee-Me-Poo) National Historic Trail up to Lone Pine Saddle for great views, or follow the river upstream on the Oregon Snake River Trail.

Temperance Creek is a private runway requiring prior permission; email Sarah or Abby. (Note the Big Bar airstrip directly across the river on the Idaho side.) Fly-in meals, especially breakfasts, are popular at Temperance Creek because the food is so good—but please email first, don’t just drop in. Spend the night at Temperance Creek Lodge and you’ll enjoy an isolated, rugged natural setting without giving up the comforts of home. Strike out on your own or hunt or just explore with Brice or Barry Barnes of Hells Canyon Packers, who know this area intimately.

If you have even a little interest in backcountry or recreational aviation, then you’ll want to know about the IAA, which recently fought and won the right for pilots to continue use of the “Big Creek 4” airstrips in central Idaho (full disclosure–I edit their newsletter, The Flyline). The IAA website also provides a list of flight instructors who specialize in mountain and canyon flying. Enjoy Hells Canyon—see you around the backcountry!

Much of the work to maintain the Hells Canyon airstrips is done by volunteers like these from the Idaho and Oregon pilot’s associations, who, in cooperation with the Idaho Division of Aeronautics, U.S. Forest Service, and others, installed a new windsock at Dug Bar in April of 2012. Photo by Crista Worthy.

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